Usually if you experience trouble after replacing an electronics board, something isn't plugged in correctly. Here are the common issues that can arise and which cords to switch:
The screen is dark and the button doesn't light up.
- The flat cables (EXP1 and EXP2) are swapped. The look the same but will not function if they are plugged in backward.
I get a "Safety Circuit Error."
- The black plastic jumpers in SAFETY1 and SAFETY2 are either missing or not quite on the metal prongs. It does not matter which way up the safeties go as long as they are fully seated.
One of the motors doesn't turn.
- The motor cables may be swapped. Here is how to trace the motor wires and determine their correct placement.
- Ultimaker 2 series: There are two motor wires that come from the right side of the printer. Follow the wire that comes down through the bottom panel on the right side and then goes under the motor block next to the board. This is the X wire. The remaining wire coming from that side comes directly out of the motor block. This is the Z. There are two motor wires that come from the left side. Gently straighten them to compare the length. The shorter of the two is the Y. The remaining wire on the left side is E1 (the longer wire when you compared the lengths). E2 is empty.
- Ultimaker 3 series:There are two motor wires that come from the right side of the printer. There are two motor wires that come from the right side through the bottom panel. Gently straighten them to compare the length. The shorter of the two is the X-motor; the longer is Feeder Right. There are two motor wires that come from the left side through the bottom panel. Gently straighten them to compare the length. The shorter of the two is the Y. The remaining wire on the left side is Feeder Left (the longer wire when you compared the lengths). The Z-motor cable should be very short and come directly from the motor just a few inches from the electronics board.
The hot end or bed crashes into one of the panels.
- First check the endstops (on the left side of the board). The X-STOP wire is blue. The Y-STOP wires is red. The Z-STOP wire is black. If the endstops are correct, motor wires are swapped. Here is how to trace the motor wires and determine their correct placement.
- Ultimaker 2 series: There are two motor wires that come from the right side of the printer. Follow the wire that comes down through the bottom panel on the right side and then goes under the motor block next to the board. This is the X wire. The remaining wire coming from that side comes directly out of the motor block. This is the Z. There are two motor wires that come from the left side. Gently straighten them to compare the length. The shorter of the two is the Y. The remaining wire on the left side is E1 (the longer wire when you compared the lengths).
- Ultimaker 3 series: There are two motor wires that come from the right side of the printer. There are two motor wires that come from the right side through the bottom panel. Gently straighten them to compare the length. The shorter of the two is the X-motor; the longer is Feeder Right. There are two motor wires that come from the left side through the bottom panel. Gently straighten them to compare the length. The shorter of the two is the Y. The remaining wire on the left side is Feeder Left (the longer wire when you compared the lengths). The Z-motor cable should be very short and come directly from the motor just a few inches from the electronics board.
The LEDs are dark, but the side fans are running. (Ultimaker 2 series)
- The bottom left cords (LED PWM and FAN PWM) are backward. the LED cord is black and red (or just red) and comes down from the front panel. The FAN cord is yellow and green and comes from the black braid with the other hot end cords.
My back fan doesn't run anymore. (Ultimaker 2 series)
- The newer electronics boards have a relay built in. The back fan only comes on when the nozzle is hot. If the fan ran all the time on your old board, it did not have a relay. The back fan should turn on when the nozzle temperature reaches 40 C. If the fan does not turn on when you heat the nozzle, check it's connection to the board. It is the blue and orange cord and it plugs in to the middle of the board (between the panel and the board).
I get a heater error or a temp sensor error, or bed temp sensor error. (Ultimaker 2 series)
- Either the temp sensors or heaters are not plugged in to the correct port.
- On the left side of the board, the TEMP1 slot should have a wire that comes down from the black braid of hot end cords. TEMP2 is empty. TEMP3 should have a black cord that splits off from one of the sets of heater wires. One the right side of the board in the green blocks, HEATER1 should have white wires (one in each slot). The wires should be secure with the metal inside the green block but not any of the insulation. HEATER2 is empty. HEATED BED should have either 2 gray wires or one blue and one brown wire (one wire in each slot); these are the heater wires connected to the cord in TEMP3. The wires should be secure with the metal inside the green block but not any of the insulation.
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