Endstops/Limit Switches

These instructions apply to the Ultimaker 3 and Ultimaker 3 Extended printers. For instructions on replacing the endstops for the Ultimaker 2 series printers,please see these replacement instructions. The term end-stop and limit switch may be used interchangeably in this article. Before beginning work, be sure to open and use the ESD safe wristband that has been supplied for you. One end should be attached to your wrist (directly on your skin), and the other end can be attached to any of the white metal frame panels of your Ultimaker 3. You can skip ahead to the instructions for the endstop you need:

  • X-Stop (blue cable, triggered by hot end at left)
  • Y-Stop (red cable, triggered by hot end at rear)
  • Z-Stop (black cable, triggered by bed at bottom)

 

Replacing the X-stop

Tools

  • 2mm hex head screwdriver
  • ESD safe bracelet

1. Remove the left corner cable cover. The cover is held in place with push fitted tabs and should be able to be pulled out with the bed lowered. You can lower the bed by applying pressure to the base plate behind the heated bed.

2. Unscrew the old endstop from the printer; it’s held in place by two 12mm long screws. The X-stop has a blue wire and is screwed into the top panel. 

X-Stop_Screws.JPG

3. Screw the replacement endstop into position on the panel. Be sure to hold the black plastic part of the endstop in place, as you screw the screws into it, you’re cutting threads into the plastic. 

IMG_0809.JPG

4. Raise the bed and lay the printer on its side; you can raise the bed by either pulling up on each side towards the back of the bed, or turning the Z-screw by hand. To prevent scratching the panel, lay it down on a clean work surface.

5. Undo the two screws that hold the Olimex cover on. These screws go down through the bottom panel on the left hand side. Remove the cover.

Olimex_Cover_Screws.jpg

6. Undo the two screws that hold the main electronics cover on. These screws go down through the bottom panel and are identified in blue on the below photo. Remove the cover.

Electronics_Board_Cover_Screws__UM3_.jpg

7. The old X-stop cable runs down the back left corner of your printer, behind your Olimex board, and behind the Z-motor, to reach your main electronics board on the right hand side. Locate the port on the main electronics board (right hand side) labeled "X-stop". It is on the right side of the board. Unplug the endstop. This is where your new wire is going to need to run to.

Electronics_Board__X-Stop.JPG

8. Loosen the 3 screws inside the bottom panel (back left) that hold your red Olimex board on until you can get your new endstop behind the board, and pull the old one to the outside. Tighten the Olimex board screws back into position.

Olimex_Board_Screws.jpg

9. Undo the 4 screws that hold your Z-motor in place and carefully pull the motor down an inch or so. This will also move the bed down as well; you want the motor far enough down that you can pull the old endstop wire out of the groove behind the motor and slide the new one in place.

Z-Motor_Screws.JPG

10. You should be able to totally remove your old endstop now, and have no interference plugging it into the main electronics board. Tighten the Z-motor screws back into place and replace the covers for your Olimex and main electronics board. Be careful not to pinch any of the wires.

11. Stand the printer back up. With the bed lowered, replace the corner cover.

12. Manually move the printhead to the far left of your printer. The rear sliding block should trigger the X-stop, and you should hear a click.

 

Replacing the Y-stop

Tools

  • 2mm hex head screwdriver
  • ESD safe bracelet

1. Remove the left corner cable cover. The cover is held in place with push fitted tabs and should be able to be pulled out with the bed lowered. You can lower the bed by applying pressure to the base plate behind the heated bed.

2. Unscrew the old endstop from the printer; it’s held in place by two 12mm long screws. The Y-stop has a red cable and is screwed into the left panel.

Y-Stop_Screws.JPG

3. Screw the replacement endstop into position on the panel. Be sure to hold the black plastic part of the endstop in place, as you screw the screws into it; you’re cutting threads in the plastic. Make sure the endstop runs behind the short belt connected to the Y-Motor.

4. Raise the bed and lay the printer on its side; you can raise the bed by either pulling up on each side towards the back of the bed, or turning the Z-screw by hand. To prevent scratching the panel, lay it down on a clean work surface; you can it down on a towel if you prefer.

5. Undo the two screws that hold the Olimex cover on. These screws go down through the bottom panel on the left hand side. Remove the cover.

Olimex_Cover_Screws.jpg

6. Undo the two screws that hold the main electronics cover on. These screws go down through the bottom panel and are identified in blue on the below photo. Remove the cover.

Electronics_Board_Cover_Screws__UM3_.jpg

7. The old Y-stop cable runs down the back left corner of your printer, behind your Olimex board, and behind the Z-motor, to reach your main electronics board on the right hand side. Locate the port on the main electronics board (right hand side) labeled “Y-stop”. It is on the right side of the board. Unplug the endstop. This is where your new wire is going to need to run to.

Electronics_Board__Y-Stop.JPG

8. Loosen the 3 screws inside the bottom panel (back left) that hold your red Olimex board on until you can get your new endstop behind the board, and pull the old one to the outside. Tighten the Olimex board screws back into position. If you’d prefer not to loosen the Olimex board, you could run the new wire on top of it, but be careful not to pinch anything.

Olimex_Board_Screws.jpg

9. Undo the 4 screws that hold your Z-motor in place and carefully pull the motor down an inch or so. This will also move the bed down as well; you want the motor far enough down that you can pull the old endstop wire out of the groove behind the motor and slide the new one in place.

Z-Motor_Screws.JPG

10. You should be able to totally remove your old endstop now, and have no interference plugging it into the main electronics board. Tighten the Z-motor screws back into place and replace the covers for your Olimex and main electronics board. Be careful not to pinch any of the wires.

11. Stand the printer back up. With the bed lowered, replace the corner cover.

12. Manually move the hot end all the way to the back of the printer. Listen for the crossbar that runs through the hot end to trigger the endstop. If you push the printhead all the way to the back of the printer and don’t hear a click, then you may need to reseat your printhead shaft farther to the left; it should fully trigger the metal arm on your Y-Stop, but it should not scrape the left panel.

Y-Stop_Triggered.JPG

 

Replacing the Z-stop

Tools

  • 2mm hex head screwdriver
  • ESD safe bracelet

1. Begin with the printer powered off, and unplugged. Unscrew the Z-stop from the back panel, being careful not to lose the 2 spacers located between the Z-stop and back panel.

2. Raise the heated build plate by pulling on the rear of the base plate on both sides, or turning the Z-screw by hand. Lay the printer carefully on its side.

3. Remove the electronics cover by unscrewing the two screws indicated below.

4. Unplug your Z-stop from the port on the electronics board that says Z-stop.

Electronics_Board__Z-stop.JPG

5. Position your new Z-stop where the old one was, with your small white spacers between the Z-stop and the back panel. Be sure your endstop is facing the correct orientation or it will not trigger. Tighten the screws down.

6. Plug your Z-stop into the port on the board labeled Z-stop on the right hand side.

7. Reinstall the electronics cover by fitting the plastic tabs into the spacers on the bottom panel. Be careful not to pinch any of the wires between the cover and the panel. Holding the lock nut in place with your finger, you should be able to screw the screw back into position and secure the cover.

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