Instructions apply to COLD print heads. Please do not disassemble while hot.
The print head for the 2GO is the same as for the UM2 and the UM2 Extended. Since changing the heater cartridge and temp sensor require accessing the electronics, the steps for these parts are a little different. For all other print head parts, please see the main article.
Please read the instructions completely before beginning.
If you are unsure of the name of a part, please check out Parts of the Print Head.
You can find diagrams of the screws for the 2GO.
Changing the Temp Sensor
REMOVE MATERIAL BEFORE REPLACING. When changing out the temp sensor, be aware that the metal end of the sensor can break off inside the nozzle.
1. Remove the blue clip. Then hold the collet down and remove the Bowden tube.
2. Remove the four small screws that hold the fan shroud to the metal holder using the 2mm allen key (the middle size from your accessory bag).
3. Remove the four thumb screws. The holder piece should now be loose.
4. Use the 1.5mm allen key (the smallest from your accessory bag) to loosen the set screw in the nozzle. You will go down through the small hole on the left side of the holder.
5. Remove the temp sensor. In many cases it will require a fair bit of force to remove the temp sensor. The temp sensor is the smaller wire. If you are looking at the back of the nozzle, the temp sensor exits the block on the left side. There is no need to remove the heater cartridge. Do not attempt to pull the temp sensor through the braid.
6. With the bed lowered, remove the right corner cover. It pops in and out of place.
7. Raise the bed and lay your machine on its back. To avoid damage to the panel, you may want to set your printer on a clean piece of cardboard or a towel.
8. Remove the three screws that hold the electronics cover on using the 2mm allen key. There are corresponding locknuts visible on the underside, but you can hold them in place with a finger, as there is an indentation in which they sit to keep them from rotating. Take the cover off.
9. You can unplug the temp sensor from the board without removing the board from the panel. The temp sensor is plugged into the port labeled TEMP 1. The wires are red and white or red and silver. Gently remove the plug.
10. Remove the temp sensor from the braid by pulling from the board end of the wire.
11. With the new temp sensor, push the metal tip that goes into the nozzle through the braid from the underside of the printer. The wire may catch on the black clips that secure the braid to the tube. If you feel resistance, find the temp sensor in the braid and gently press the temp sensor away from the clip. When the temp sensor exits the braid at the hot end, make sure the wire goes through all three block pieces before reaching the nozzle.
12. Insert the temp sensor into the nozzle. The sensor is fully inserted when you can no longer see the metal tip. Make sure the heater cartridge is also fully inserted. The heater cartridge is completely seated when the white gap of cord in the metal connector is against the nozzle block. Hold the heater cartridge in place while tightening the nozzle set screw. When finished, make sure the wires are still fully seated.
13. Hold the print block together. The linear bearings that run through it should be centered in the block. They are shorter than the print block, so don't line them up with the edge. Put the metal holder in place. Watch the fan cords; it is easy to pinch them between the print block and the holder. Reinsert and tighten the thumb screws.
14. If you do not have a white PTFE ring that sits around the nozzle in the hole in the fan shroud, follow the directions in step fifteen. If you have a white PTFE ring , put this in place in the new fan shroud. Screw the new fan shroud into place and move to step sixteen.
15. If you do not have a PTFE ring, you'll have to make sure the nozzle is not touching the fan shroud. Start each of the four screws that hold the fan shroud on. Look underneath at where the nozzle goes through the hole in the fan shroud. Center the nozzle so it is not touching the fan shroud. Then tighten the four screws. Once they are tight, check and make sure the nozzle hasn't moved.
16. Make sure none of the cords are pinched between the holder and the print block. Ensure that none of the wires are in contact with the rear fan.
17. Reseat the Bowden tube, making sure that it goes all the way to the PTFE coupler and doesn't get caught on the metal plate above. Then replace the blue clip.
18.Put the covers back on. Start with the one that goes over the board first.
Make sure the flat cables and the LED wire (red/black) exit through the opening on the top right of the cover. Do not pinch the wires. There is an opening on the bottom right for the x-motor wire, z-motor wire, and z-stop wire. Do not pinch the wires. There are tabs on the cover that go into each of the three adjacent panels. Secure the cover with the larger of the screws you have left (12mm) and two locknuts which you will need to hold with pliers or a nut driver. You can stand your printer up now.
Lower the bed and then put the corner cover in place.
Changing the Heater Cartridge
REMOVE MATERIAL BEFORE REPLACING.
1. Remove the blue clip. Then hold the collet down and remove the Bowden tube.
2. Remove the four small screws that hold the fan shroud to the metal holder using the 2mm allen key (the middle size from your accessory bag).
3. Remove the four thumb screws. The holder piece should now be loose.
4. Use the 1.5mm allen key (the smallest from your accessory bag) to loosen the set screw in the nozzle. You will go down through the small hole on the left side of the holder.
5. Gently remove the heater cartridge. The heater cartridge is the larger wire. If you are looking at the back of the nozzle, the heater cartridge exits the block on the right side. There is no need to remove the temp sensor. Do not attempt to pull the heater cartridge through the braid.
6. With the bed lowered, remove the right corner cover. It pops into and out of place.
7. Raise the bed and lay your machine on its back. To avoid damage to the panel, you may want to set your printer on a clean piece of cardboard or a towel.
8. Remove the three screws that hold the electronics cover on using the 2mm allen key. There are corresponding locknuts visible on the underside, but you can hold them in place with a finger, as there is an indentation in which they sit to keep them from rotating. Take the cover off.
9. You do not need to remove the electronics board. On the bottom left, there are three green terminal blocks. The bottom one contains the heater wires. In order to access them, remove the green blocks (starting at the top so you can reach the bottom ones). Pull them straight toward you.
10. Now you disconnect the old heater cartridge. The blocks have orange spring loaded connections; to open it, push down on the orange part with a flat head screwdriver and pull the wires out. The spring must be depressed in order to insert the new heater cartridge wires. When you put the new wires in, make sure the insulation is not in contact with the inside of the terminal block. The metal of the wires needs to have a solid contact.
11. Secure the nozzle-end of the new heater cartridge to the end of the old heater cartridge. You will pull the new wire through the braid as you remove the old wire by pulling from the nozzle end.
12. Put the green blocks back on starting with the one containing the heater wires which goes at the bottom (wires to the left, open holes to the right).
13. Before you plug the new heater cartridge into the nozzle block, make sure it is threaded through the black print block. Insert the heater cartridge into the nozzle block. The heater cartridge is completely seated when the white gap of cord in the metal connector is against the nozzle block. Hold the heater cartridge in place while tightening the nozzle set screw. When finished, make sure the heater cartridge is still fully seated.
14. Hold the print block together. The linear bearings that run through it should be centered in the block. They are shorter than the print block, so don't line them up with the edge. Put the metal holder in place. Watch the fan cords; it is easy to pinch them between the print block and the holder. Reinsert and tighten the thumb screws.
15. If you do not have a white PTFE ring that sits around the nozzle in the hole in the fan shroud, follow the directions in step sixteen. If you have a white PTFE ring , put this in place in the new fan shroud. Screw the new fan shroud into place and move to step seventeen.
16. If you do not have a PTFE ring, you'll have to make sure the nozzle is not touching the fan shroud. Start each of the four screws that hold the fan shroud on. Look underneath at where the nozzle goes through the hole in the fan shroud. Center the nozzle so it is not touching the fan shroud. Then tighten the four screws. Once they are tight, check and make sure the nozzle hasn't moved.
17. Make sure none of the cords are pinched between the holder and the print block. Ensure that none of the fan wires are in contact with the rear fan.
18. Reseat the Bowden tube, making sure that it goes all the way to the PTFE coupler and doesn't get caught on the metal plate above. Then replace the blue clip.
19. Put the covers back on. Start with the one that goes over the board first.
Make sure the flat cables and the LED wire (red/black) exit through the opening on the top right of the cover. Do not pinch the wires. There is an opening on the bottom right for the x-motor wire, z-motor wire, and z-stop wire. Do not pinch the wires. There are tabs on the cover that go into each of the three adjacent panels. Secure the cover with the larger of the screws you have left (12mm) and two locknuts which you will need to hold with pliers or a nut driver. You can stand your printer up now.
Lower the bed and then put the corner cover in place.
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